Foodie Adventures in Panama: The "Mantanza"

The day after I landed in Panama City, my friends and I drove to the countryside where the indigenous people live, to a small town called Torti. We were there to help with the preparation of a "mantanza" which roughly translates to mean "killing". The reason for the mantanza was to host a large celebration for three graduates. Two cows were selected, and luckily I was not witness to this part of the event. Later in the afternoon, the men returned and the meat was skinned, cut and marinated.

With so much meat, it took many hours, "mucho cervezas", and alot of volunteers working together late into the night in preparation for cooking. I wasn't willing to jump in and help out with the actual meat handling, but I did assist with the chopping of massive amounts of garlic used to flavor the beef, the result of our handiwork shown below.

After a long night of work, we all woke up early (hard not to when you have roosters as your alarm clock!) and the cooking began. Huge pots were hoisted atop makeshift firepits and were soon full of boiling yucca, potatoes and meat. In this picture you can see one of the women using her machete to peel the thick waxy skin off of the yuca.

As they worked to prepare the meat in different styles, they also hung the remainder of beef to dry under a tarp and be used another time. 

When I returned in the afternoon from meeting and visiting with additional family members who lived in the community, the food was ready to serve. My friend asked if I minded helping out with the serving, which of course I was happy to do. This involved working with a partner and loading up a large metal sheet pan with 6-8 plates of food and then walking as a pair around the vicinity offering meals to the guests.

After I had worked for awhile and felt that I had earned my keep, so to speak, I decided it was time to sample for myself. I tried something that looked like beef jerky. It was sweet and replete with garlic, so I was happy. Unfortunately I didn't get an opportunity to taste a tamale, although they looked delicious!

As the sun set, and everyone had eaten as much as they could, it was time to get the party into full swing. The crowd pulled a circle of chairs around the dance area. Bottles of rum were passed around, dancing ensued. With cerveza in hand, and a willing instructor, I hit the dance floor myself. It was the beginning of carnival, after all.

 

Proposal for Sunday beer sales by CT Governor gains momentum

In the event that you are not the kind of person who stalks the governor's page for recent proposals and actions, you might not know about the pressure to modernize the antiquated "blue laws" in the state in reference to liquor and beer sales.  For reference, "The Blue Laws of the Colony of Connecticut, as distinct from the generic term "blue laws" that refers to any laws regulating activities on Sunday, were the initial statutes set up by the Gov. Theophilus Eaton with the assistance of the Rev. John Cotton in 1655 for the Colony of New Haven, now part of Connecticut. After the laws were approved, they were printed in London, England, in 1656 and distributed to households in New Haven. Although there has been much commotion made about the harshness of the Blue Laws of Connecticut, it seems that they are the perpetuation of an incredible hoax, by the Reverend Samuel Peters, an Anglican forced to leave America during the Revolution. He made up examples of "Blue Laws" in a booklet in order to make America appear backwards and fanatical." For your amusement and enlightenment, I have listed the laws below, courtesy of the ever helpful wikipedia.

The puritans were a strange bunch alright. However, the battle over the sale and consumption of alcohol has always been contested in this country. After the Puritans, there was the temperance group which was popular in New England as well. Henry Ward Beecher (brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe) was a prominent figure in this movement which was founded in Litchfield county.

All this liquor history has given me a thirst, so on to the CT Brewery Trail. Betcha didn't know we had one of those, did you? As it turns out, Connecticut has been steadily increasing its prescense and now boasts thirteen active breweries! City Steam and Thomas Hooker Brewery have already been mentioned on this blog, but Olde Burnside, New England Brewing, Cottrell, Cavalry, and Relic Brewing still need to be explored. The list of 13 also include breweries that are in the early stage of development, giving us something to anticipate. Since the wine trail doesn't open till May, and in honor of Governor Malloy's proposition, it seems highly appropriate to head out and raise a pint class to the end of CT's Blue Laws.

Check out the full list and websites here: http://ctbeertrail.net/page/breweries-1

If you are interesting in finding out more information on the governor's proposal, or on taking action yourself...check out the following links.

http://www.governor.ct.gov/malloy/lib/malloy/2012.01.14_modernizing_ct_liquor_laws.pdf

Take action and VOTE : http://endctbluelaws.org/ (header on page borrowed from them)

The Blue Laws of the Colony of Connecticut
1.The Governor and Magistrates convened in general Assembly, are the supreme power under God of this independent Dominion.
2.From the determination of the Assembly no appeal shall be made.
3.The Governor is amenable to the voice of the people.
4.The Governor shall have only a single vote in determining any question; except a casting vote, when the Assembly may be equally divided.
5.The Assembly of the People shall not be dismissed by the Governor, but shall dismiss itself.
6.Conspiracy against this Dominion shall be punished with death.
7.Whoever says there is power and jurisdiction above and over this Dominion, shall suffer death and loss of property.
8.Whoever attempts to change or overturn this Dominion, shall suffer death.
9.The judges shall determine controversies without a jury.
10.No one shall be a freeman, or give a vote, unless he be converted, and a member in full communion of one of the Churches allowed in this Dominion.
11.No man shall hold any office, who is not sound in the faith, and faithful to this Dominion; and whoever gives a vote to such a person, shall pay a fine of £1; for a second offence, he shall be disfranchised.
12.Each freeman shall swear by the blessed God to bear true allegiance to this Dominion, and that Jesus Christ is the only King.
13.No quaker or dissenter from the established worship of this Dominion shall be allowed to give a vote for the election of Magistrates, or any officer.
14.No food or lodging shall be afforded to a Quaker, Adamite, or other Heretic.
15.If any person turns Quaker, he shall be banished, and not suffered to return but upon pain of death.
16.No Priest shall abide in this Dominion: he shall be banished, and suffer death on his return. Priests may be seized by any one without a warrant.
17.No one to cross a river, but with an authorized ferryman.
18.No one shall run on the Sabbath day, or walk in his garden or elsewhere, except reverently to and from meeting.
19.No one shall travel, cook victuals, make beds, sweep house, cut hair, or shave, on the Sabbath day.
20.No woman shall kiss her child on the Sabbath or fasting day.
21.The Sabbath shall begin at sunset on Saturday.
22.To pick an ear of corn growing in a neighbor's garden, shall be deemed theft.
23.A person accused of trespass in the night shall be judged guilty, unless he clear himself by his oath.
24.When it appears that an accused has confederates, and he refuses to discover them, he may be racked.
25.No one shall buy or sell lands without permission of the selectmen.
26.A drunkard shall have a master appointed by the selectmen, who are to debar him from the liberty of buying and selling.
27.Whoever publishes a lie to the prejudice of his neighbor, shall sit in the stocks, or be whipped fifteen stripes.
28.No minister shall keep a school.
29.Every rateable person, who refuses to pay his proportion to the support of the Minister of the town or parish, shall be fined by the Court £2, and £4 every quarter, until he or she pay the rate to the Minister.
30.Men-stealers shall suffer death.
31.Whoever wears clothes trimmed with gold, silver, or bone lace, above two shillings by the yard, shall be presented by the grand jurors, and the selectmen shall tax the offender at £300 estate.
32.A debtor in prison, swearing he has no estate, shall be let out and sold, to make satisfaction.
33.Whoever sets a fire in the woods, and it burns a house, shall suffer death; and persons suspected of this crime shall be imprisoned, without benefit of bail.
34.Whoever brings cards or dice into this dominion shall pay a fine of £5.
35.No one shall read Common-Prayer, keep Christmas or saints-days, make minced pies, dance, play cards, or play on any instrument of music, except the drum, trumpet, and the jaw harp.
36.No gospel Minister shall join people in marriage; the magistrates only shall join in marriage, as they may do it with less scandal to Christ's Church.
37.When parents refuse their children convenient marriages, the Magistrates shall determine the point.
38.The selectmen, on finding children ignorant, may take them away from their parents, and put them into better hands, at the expense of their parents.
39.Fornication shall be punished by compelling the marriage, or as the Court may think proper.
40.Adultery shall be punished by death.
41.A man that strikes his wife shall pay a fine of £10; a woman that strikes her husband shall be punished as the Court directs.
42.A wife shall be deemed good evidence against her husband.
43.No man shall court a maid in person, or by letter, without first obtaining consent of her parents: £5 penalty for the first offence; £10 for the second; and, for the third, imprisonment during the pleasure of the Court.
44.Married persons must live together, or be imprisoned.
45.Every male shall have his hair cut round according to a cap.

Pierogies are a girls' best friend: dining at the PNH

It still baffles me that the Polish National Home is often referred to as a well kept "secret" lunch spot smack in downtown Hartford. The solid square building was designed by a Polish-American Hartford architect named Henry F. Ludorf in 1929, and no it's not sideways. At the time that it was built, the entrance faced Governors Street, but that street disappeared in 1960 when the city decided to build a housing project.

As a child, I spent alot of time visiting the Polish National Home. I took traditional folk dancing classes in the evenings and performed in holiday pageants. The Russian Orthodox church that my family attended offered classes ever so briefly, so as a result, I spent years mastering both Polish and Ukrainian dancing instead. It's fun to return as an adult and be able to enter the restaurant/ bar which was strictly off limits to me before. One item of curiosity to take note of is that smoking is still allowed in the dining room. The reason for this, is because it is classified as a private club, although being open to the public. Hmm. Good news for some, and probably a turnoff for other readers. However, I have to report that as a non-smoker, on the days that I have visited, I didn't notice a lingering cloud, or the smell of rank ashtrays.  

My favorite meal is one that begins with a bowl of kapusniak. This is a traditional cabbage soup made with a beef stock and chopped vegetables. My friend and I practically inhaled ours, as we dunked our slices of buttered bread in to absorb the remnants of broth. They also offer soup selections on their list of specials such as split pea with kielbasa, and borscht (beet soup).

If it's your first time to the PNH, you might start off with a typical platter which has pierogi, kielbasa slices and sauerkraut. Fluffy, fried potatoe pancakes served with sour cream and apple sauce are also a good introduction. Or jump right into a kielbasa sandwich, making sure to add horseradish for some kick. Personally I went for my favorite, pierogi sauteed in butter and onions with a side of sour cream. They sell them individually for $1.50, versus an "order". As that might indicate, one of the best features of the PNH is the old fashioned prices, which I hope never change.  

Location: 60 Charter Oak Avenue, Hartford, CT
Phone: 860-247-1784
Closed on Mondays

Foodie Adventures in Latin America: Panama, part III

While I experienced many of those "OMG, I am really here!" moments during my trip to Panama, the one that surprised me was during a visit to Casco Viejo and the El Mercado del Mariscos (fish market). The above photo shows the view from the market, with the fishing boats infront of the city skyline. Well the reason for my surprise was when I had the feeling that I had seen this market someplace before, and then realized it was on the last season of The Amazing Race! As we walked past the vendors, my friend told me that this was where the chefs from the city come to purchase for their restaurants.

From red snappers to corvina, we saw it all, and I recieved a lesson in how to tell if a fish is fresh or on its way out. The trick is to peek under the gills and hope to see a red color. Also you want to make sure that the eyes are not sunken. The most obvious test of course, is that you never want a fish that has started to smell.

My friend has a serious addiction to ceviche, which is a tapas made of chopped up seafood, onions, spices and perhaps some mayonaise, and sells for $1-$2 per cup. As we drove around the country, I had thought there was only one type...the one made of river shrimp. At the market I realized how wrong I was. The picture above shows one of the many ceviche vendors. There were at least 20 different varieties to sample!

The area surrounding the fish market is one that I have been dying to visit for quite some time. Casco Viejo (the Old Quarter) that was settled after the Old City was destroyed in 1671 by the pirate Henry Morgan. The walled city consists of Spanish colonial architecture from the 16th-17th centuries, and was recently named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. After this happened, money started flowing in via investments, foreign expats and historic preservationists to restore the area.

It is devestatingly beautiful and is undergoing a massive renovation and redevelopment period where buildings are being gutted and restored within a window of 2-3 months. My only issue with this is that the Panamanians who have called this area home are slowly being pushed out. As buildings are purchased for cheap and then sold for millions, obviously the residents will not be able to afford them, and pressure will increase for them to leave. I worry that the next time that I return to Panama, I will not even recognize the area. There is a fine line between restoration / preservation and gentrification. Often times, what seems to be ignored is the fact that an area is special not because of it's location, buildings or history...but because of the PEOPLE, and the culture they imbue into that place.

A project like this can go two ways; complete gentrification and the addition of buisnesses that are completely out of sync with the location such as italian and sushi restaurants in this case, or working with residents to create a sympatico where the local flavor is retained, making concessions for shifting residents into the restored buildings and keeping them in their community instead of pushing them out, creating and allowing buisnesses that retain Panamanian culture and style. Projects like this can be exciting, but also dangerous. Sadly, I hear my friend's words of wisdom ringing in my ears. Whomever controls the money in Panama will control its future. I am keeping my fingers crossed for when I return.

Foodie Adventures in Latin America: Panama, part II

One particular highlight of my trip to Panama was when I was invited to visit a local farmer and experience using a sugar cane press. This was of particular interest to me because of connections with the Virgin Islands and having spent considerable amounts of time both visiting and studying the sugar cane plantation industry that took place in the Carribean using slave labor. In visiting Annaburg for example on St. John, a visitor is taken back in time to see the ruins of where the cane was collected and crushed, then would have been boiled in vats to make the eventual end product of rum.

After we had visited with the newly born calf, and chased away by it's mother...it was time to collect the sugar cane. In the above photo, you can see Lila collecting the stalks of sugar cane that Ferra has cut with his machete. Then it was time to head to the press. Typically the press would be operated by animal power, most likely a burro. The horse would have to be blindfolded so that it wouldn't get dizzy from walking in a circle. I am still confused about how being blindfolded helps the horse.

As two of us strained to push the heavy wooden beam in circles to get the press working, the farmer fed stalks of cane into the metal gear frame. The crushed stalks were then pulled out of the other side, and the juice collected underneath and emerged from a plastic tube where Chichi and Lila caught the streaming liquid into a pan and bottles.

The sugar cane juice that we collected tasted amazing, and not just because of how exhausted we were from the effort that went into pressing it. I was surprised to see the color was dark green, but the liquid was warm and not overly sugary. It didn't need to be strained or purified, and so there were pieces of crushed fibers found in every sip, but it was so delicious, that it didn't matter. I took a movie of the whole process, but it's not uploaded currently. I will keep trying, so check back to view!