The best coffee...

A love of coffee, ideally organic and with artisanal drinks is something that guides me in much of my explorations. Recently, this led me to Finca Riveroll in Guadalajara, Mexico, and after I had made three visits in three days, I decided it was best to share my “secret” find. My first visit was to share a turkish brew and sample a chile chocolate torte  (amazing) which nicely accompanied a philosophical discussion about life. Second time I stuck to cappuccinos and conversation about photography and public spaces. The third time, I met the owner, and took all of his recommendations until my heart started to race from the caffeine. 

Oscar Riveroll owns a finca (farm) in Veracruz where he grows his beans under a cloud forest in the mountain region of Cofre de Perote. The beans are 100% arabica. While I am a coffee lover, and not necessarily a coffee expert, I have had my share of coffee knowledge classes during my barista training. For example, your beans should not be stored in such a way that they lose their natural oils. When they do, they become bitter. I have found that the coffee I like the best, doesn’t require any sugar, or even any milk. There is nothing to cover up and hide with flavorings. The coffee here is all organic, and prepared in a plethora of different ways. 

When you stop adding all the extras to your coffee, you can really let the beans shine, and slowly sip, enjoying the richness. As I did, when Oscar poured steaming milk over my espresso with such gusto that I laughed out loud from the sheer pleasure of the moment. The shop is such a wonderful place to spend a morning, and I quickly lost track of time. There are portraits done in coffee on the walls, books to borrow, and interesting people to practice Spanish conversation with.

On my next order, I tried a french press in which the beans were combined with cardamom. I was thrilled. What a wonderful combination of flavors. Side note: if you happen to be looking at the money on the counter, and thinking it’s a lot...think again. The exchange rate in Mexico is extremely favorable for the dollar. It’s approximately $25 for $500 pesos and that can go quite far. I probably spend more money on coffee than anything else. 

If you ever find yourself in Guadalajara, or Veracruz for that matter...this is one place to seek out! You will know you have found it, when you see the brightly colored building on the corner with the faces of Frieda Kahlo and Diego Rivera! 

Website: http://fincariveroll.com

Pizza war winner: Sally's Apizza

Anybody from Connecticut, and perhaps New England, is aware of the pizza wars originating in New Haven. Who makes a better pie? Is it Frank Pepe? Or Sally's Apizza? If we were judging by volume, then it might be said that Frank Pepe is the clear winner, and pizza devotees don't need to travel to New Haven to enjoy. They can stop by West Hartford, Manchester, or other locations to enjoy their favorite. But is that the end of it? Recently a friend and I decided to go and find out. Although it was a wednesday night, Sally's Apizza was humming and we were considerably lucky to get the one table that had opened up, close to the tantalizing smell of the ovens, and within sight of the steady line of hungry customers at the front door.

So what is the secret? Well, honestly, I think it's in the pie's simplicity, and in the deeply flavorful sauce. We decided that it made most sense to do a 50/50 split so that we could try both styles. Maybe the secret lies in the fact that the same coal fired oven has been used for over eighty years, and there is some sort of flavor infusion effect happening. While we pondered this, and sipped on our white birch beer sodas, we looked around the place and admired the photos. At the time, we were not sure if the photos were of actual patrons, but a glance at their website says that they are! "Many dignitaries, athletes and stars have dined on Sally's over the years. Pictures and memorabilia from these visits line the walls. Notables include Frank Sinatra, Bill Clinton, Al Gore, Kathleen Turner, Don Rickles, Jimmy Durante and Gary Trudeau (look for the Doonesbury tribute to Sally's the next time you are there)." 

We anxiously watched as pie after steaming by came out on rectangular metal sheet pans, to other eagerly waiting patrons. We made a quick mental note to ourselves that we wouldn't arrive at the point of starvation on our next visit. Conversation at this point strayed to references to the Chinese food restaurant episode of Seinfeld, and the eggroll dare.

We were almost to that point when our pie was placed down. Ignoring the fact that it was steaming hot, I quickly folded up a slice (like a New Yorker) and savored the tang of the tomatoe sauce. That sauce. It is like eating fresh tomatoes, with that lingering acidity on the tongue. Fellow diners appeared to be as won over as I was, and "this is the best pizza I have ever tasted" resonated from several booths. The half with the mozzarella cheese was a close second, and soon the pie had disappeared in front of us. I know pizza preference is a personal thing. But for me, Sally's Apizza is the clear winner of the pizza war. I have tried Frank Pepe's on three separate occasions and been under impressed. Every time, the pies lacked in flavor, had a soupy and rather uncooked center, and too much crust. But maybe that's how other people like their pies.

If you are in New Haven, and have time to wait in the line, give Sally's a visit. But be prepared. It is a cash only establishment, no credit cards accepted. Personally, I am ready for another.

237 Wooster Street, New Haven, CT
http://sallysapizza.com/index.html

HOURS:

Monday        CLOSED
Tuesday        CLOSED
Wednesday   4:00 to 9:00
Thursday      4:00 to 9:00
Friday          4:00 to 10:00
Saturday       3:00 to 10:00
Sunday         3:00 to 9:00

Roti, Roti...

If there is one place on this earth that I could call a home-away-from-home, that place would be the Virgin Islands. The effects of an island childhood has irrevocably shaped the kind of woman that I have become. Wherever my life takes me, I walk to a reggae beat, heal myself with local plant wisdom, keep myself open to new cultures, and crave the flavors of the tropics. These flavors are unforgettable. 

On my last trip to the islands, my father had a surprise for me. He had scouted out a local food destination on the way from Charlotte Amalie to the ferry at Red Hook. He pulled our jeep over at “We Never Sleep” food truck which consisted of a refurbished school bus, painted bright red with a eating area created immediately behind it. I was immediately excited because their main dish is roti, something that I have been curious to try. Roti, which is also known as chapati, is an unleavened flat bread. 

It is made from stoneground wholemeal flour and originated in India, but became popular as well in Guyana, Pakistan, Nepal, Maldives, South Africa, Suriname and the Caribbean. Most notably, roti got an upgrade in Trinidad and Tobago. Here the bread, which had been used to accompany meals or sop up soups with, became transformed into a carrier vessel and roti became known as a sandwich! 

Of course the options are endless for filings. We were lucky that day to have been offered saltfish, which wasn’t on the menu. The roti bread is too thick to roll, so it is folded loosely over the abundant filling. Our filling consisted of saltfish with potatoes and garbanzo beans with rich and slightly curried flavors. 

Another pleasing discovery for me was that they sold Moringa tea. Recently I had been studying up on this “miracle tree” which is a virtual powerhouse of nutrients. The leaves contain more than 90 nutrients 46 antioxidants! The list of benefits is almost too long to mention, but it has been used for ages with traditional healing methods, with great success. So naturally, we had a cup. That’s my medicine for the day! 

If you happen to find yourself visiting the Virgin Islands, and specifically St. Thomas, look for We Never Sleep on the way to the ferry. It is very close to the Coki Beach area, on the side of the road. 

The Angry Tofu- A Korean Adventure

On one not so lovely New England winter day, I was feeling rather glum. To cheer me up, my mother suggested we go to lunch at a place that I had been eyeing, and have ourselves a foodie adventure. And this is how we ended up at Angry Tofu, looking over the extensive menu with a combination of apprehension and excitement. Before stepping foot into the unassuming restaurant, with the clever logo, I hadn’t been overly curious about the cuisine because when I thought of Korean food, my mind clung to the phrase Korean BBQ and stopped there. Natural inclinations leaning towards a mainly vegetarian diet, this phrase alone was enough to kill my curiosity. But today was different. 

The lure of something with tofu had gotten my attention. Now there was one problem. Tofu was everywhere on the menu, but alongside some sort of meat. I decided on the Kimchi soup with soft tofu. If there is anything that Korean is known for outside of its isolationism, and Kim Jong-Un would be Kimchi! This delicious fermented vegetable mixture has been praised for fighting aging, improving cardiovascular and digestive health, boosting immune system and fighting cholesterol. It’s chock full of antioxidants, flavonoids and probiotics. Sounded like the perfect choice for my lunch. My mother went with a classic Bibimbap, which is mixed rice, lean meat, seaweed and vegetables, topped with an egg. 

Very shortly after we ordered, the waiter brought over a selection of fermented and pickled dishes. I could have very happily called this my meal. Each one was delicious!!! Especially liked the fish balls (or at least what I think they were), and the kimchi cucumbers. Next came out the entrees. I was a bit surprised when I started poking around the inside of my bowl. What I had thought would be a vegetarian dish, seemed to have some interesting strips of meat inside. I think they were pork, but I am no expert. 

After they had been fished out, and designated to one of the empty side dishes, I have to say, I fell in love with the flavor of my soup. It was warming, a little spicy, and all around comforting. The straw mushrooms and tofu were perfectly complimentary. My mother’s dish was also beautiful. 

All the ingredients were organic and it was a pleasure knowing that we could order something healthy with that assurance. We finished our meal with a chilled glass of cinnamon tea that had two pine nuts floating in it. It was definitely a foodie adventure! I will be planning a return trip, to do some more tasting, and looking for that perfect vegetarian friendly item on the menu! I know its hiding there somewhere! 

Location: The Angry Tofu, 1030 Silas Deane Highway, Wethersfield, CT 

Phone: 860-513-1004

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Angry-Tofu-Korean-Cuisine-710177472446403/info/?tab=overview (you can see the menu here ahead of time!!)

Vegan Rasta Food in Hartford’s West End

Rastafari. You say this word and people’s eyes light up with recognition. They think of Bob Marley, dreadlocks, marijuana and reggae music. It seeps of a particular “coolness” factor. Hey, even the rapper, Snoop Dogg jumped on board after a trip to Jamaica and is now calling himself Snoop Lion. I won’t even go into that. So before even telling you about “Fire and Spice,” a family run Rastafarian restaurant, it seems necessary to clarify up a few points about the subject. First, contrary to popular opinion, it is not a religion... it is a way of life. To fully understand the philosophy, I will provide some links to further readings at the bottom of this posting. But here are some pointers. #1. The philosophy is based on the prophesy made by Marcus Garvey at the turn of the century that said Africa would have a new black king, and that man would be the messiah. Shortly thereafter, Haile Selassie I was crowned king in Ethiopia. The burgeoning Rastafari movement saw him as the second coming of Jesus. Selassie however always denied this. #2. There are four symbolic colors. Yellow= wealth of Africa. Red= refers to blood and martyrdom of past Rastafari. Black= for the movement’s founders and call for return to roots. Green= rich plant life in Africa.

Ask Andrew about his reggae album when you see him...

#3. Rastas dislike “ians” and “isms” which epitomizes the “Babylonian” system that oppresses all people. Calling their practice a “religion” or “Rastafarianism” is frowned upon. The philosophy was founded in Jamaica as a tool for empowerment where they could reject Western ideals forced on them from a colonial past, and reclaim their culture and roots. #4. Ital food, derived from “vital” is clean and natural. Rastas consume no salt, alcohol, cigarettes, drugs (excluding herbs), oil and meats. Fish should be less than a foot in length. They see food as a means to create harmony with nature and as medicinal as it shapes one’s “strucha” (Patois word for structure). So what kind of food awaits you at Fire and Spice? Unlike Lion’s Den (see review in November 2011), serving more traditional ital food, here you will find a blend of vegan food mixed with ital. There are two options for dining. Ordering from the buffet, which most people seem to favor, or ordering from a printed menu which offers raw food items, sandwiches, etc. I have not tried this yet. On my last few visits there has been some confusion as the owners seem to be trying to change how food is ordered at the buffet, but are struggling because the customers are accustomed to the way things have always been.

Change is never easy. Especially in restaurants. So as it stands now, if you want to eat at one of the tables in the restaurant, you have a seat and they come take your order. It costs a dollar more. Still unsure why. The favored method by myself and other customers appears to be standing at the counter to select your items (either 3 or 5) and taking them to go. Afterall, Elizabeth Park is a short drive away, and provides a sublime environment to enjoy your food. The buffet selections are fixed and include items such as; jerk tofu, scrambled tofu, bbq pomegranate tempeh, sweet potatoes, sautéed greens, ital stew, pumpkin rice and okra. And if you have never tried Sorrel, this is the time and place. Sorrel is made from the ginger, cinnamon and dried hibiscus flowers. Not only does it taste amazing, but it is very high in antioxidants. Or if you prefer a stronger libation...they sell a few Jamaican beers for the attractive price of $4 each. I highly recommend that you try a Dragon Stout, made by the producers of Guinness.

Fire and Spice, 248 Sisson Ave, Hartford, CT 06105, (888) 367-7970
Website: http://www.firenspiceveganrestaurant.com

Eye on Brazil

After beginning to introduce meats into my life again after being a lifelong vegetarian, one of the few places that I began frequenting on a regular basis, was Brazil Grill in Hartford. Growing up, my father always tried to entice me with hot dogs, hamburgers, and other grilled meats. Besides the occasional slice of kielbasa on Russian Easter, the rest turned my stomach.

So what was it about churrascaria? First, some background. Brazil is known as a rancher country, so obviously meat is a big deal. Churrasco style is essentially a South American rotisserie style of roasting meat skewers. It originated with the cattle ranching gauchos in the 16th and 17th centuries beginning in the Rio Grande do Sul region of Brazil and spread around the rest of the country after the 1940's. Traditionally, the cooking technique involved coating the meats in coarse salt, resting for 30 minutes and then set atop the fire. A saltwater basting method was used to ensure the meat stayed moist during cooking. The skewers are strategically placed on racks over the flames wherein the items with more fat are placed on top of the other cuts thus infusing them with flavor as the juices drip down. 

Brazil Grill isn't exactly noticeable from the street. On your first visit, you might drive right past the tan building with dark windows which makes it hard to tell if it's actually open, except for the fact that the small parking lot is always chock full of cars which might then cause you to look up and see the detached sign at the edge of the lot. Continuing inside, turn immediately to your left and enter the side room where there is a salad station and cooked food buffet. 

Grab a plate and load up on items from a rotating menu that include items such as fried fish, yucca with pork, and bacalhau (codfish stew). Making sure to leave some space on your plate for the main attraction, head back out and visit the grill where you can pick from a list of skewers. There you can load your plate up with slices of chicken heart, sirloin, lamb, ribs and more. Lastly, your items get weighed at the register, where you pay by the pound ($6.00-$12.99). Personally I have a mild addiction to maracuya "passion fruit", so I usually order a glass of juice at this point, and maybe a custard to accompany my meal. 

More often than not, I have noticed that there has been a soccer game playing on the television in the background. This of course, started me thinking about this years World Cup being held in Brazil. 

As the government is posed to spend hundreds of millions of dollars on security and cleaning up the city in preparation, other issues have arisen. Riots across the country have led to violent protests on the streets of Belo, Rio de Janeiro, San Paulo and other regions. The police, in cooperation with the army started a "pacification" campaign in 2008 which is expected to continue long after the world cup, which is aimed at eradicating drug gangs in the countries many favelas. 

The government also signed a $350M deal with Israel in 2009 to supply drones for the event as well as the 2015 Olympics. The focal point of the protesters stems from residents questioning how this money is being spent, when they would prefer seeing the funds being used to build necessary hospitals and schools. These protests are no small affair, as you can see from this video:


 
More information on opportunities for activism surrounding Brazil and the FIFA World Cup check out this excellent website about the indigenous peoples and struggles: http://www.survivalinternational.org/worldcup

Brazil Grill: http://www.brazilgrillct.com/

Make your way to Primavera for a taste of Portugual

There are some moments in our lives that define us and our taste buds. One of mine occurred long before I would have called myself a foodie. I was sixteen and my date had invited me to dinner at The Bull Pen Cafe in Hartford's Parkville neighborhood. I was a strict vegetarian, and I will never forget the horrible moment as I stared at the menu in my hands and saw that there was nothing there for me to eat, not even a salad. I realized that if I wanted to make a good impression with his Portuguese family I was going to have to put my personal beliefs and tastes aside or risk committing a serious offense. I took a deep breath and asked them to order something for me. What arrived was a slab of meat that I couldn't identify, and I remember taking large gulps of soda as I tried to chew appreciatively. So it had been a good twenty years or so since I felt I was ready to take another stab at Portuguese cuisine. 

 
As most devout foodies are apt to tell you, the harder it is to get to, the better, and there is usually a loyal following with downright amazing food. Well, Primavera (which I believe means "Spring") might be the very definition of this. While it is in one of the oddest locations, hidden in plain sight, on Newington Ave, it is certainly not a secret to the initiated. We arrived at 11:45 am, as I had been tipped off that it is best to come early. Our knowledgeable server, Xuxa greeted us with a small bowl of olives and a basket of bread, and my friend and I munched away and watched with amazement as the small restaurant swelled to capacity within ten minutes.

At first the simple space reminded me of visiting a VFW hall or something similar. But after we ordered, we looked around a little closer to find that the place did actually have a lot of character. If you happen to find yourself there when there is room to walk about, check out the different photographs, posters and even musical instruments hung on the walls. 

Very shortly thereafter, our appetizers showed up. I have a little love affair with cod fritters and at .75 cents a piece, an order of four was not enough. Lightly crisped on the outside, these tasty little morsels were doused in hot sauce and disappeared within minutes. It was agreed that we could have effortlessly consumed a dozen of them. Although next visit I will also have to make sure I sample the fritters made from shrimp and potato as well.

As I looked over at the table next to us, and saw a carafe of red house wine brought over, I semi-regretted coming for lunch instead of dinner. This is one of the things that I miss most about visiting other countries. Meal time is not something to be hurriedly squeezed into a lunch break from work. It is an experience meant to be shared and savored. I was relieved from my wandering thoughts of the pleasures of long meals as ours arrived. The tilapia filets were smothered in sauteed onions and peppers and accompanied by boiled potatoes and sauteed broccoli rabe. Four steamed mussel 
shells lined the rim of the plate. Heavenly. I instantly understood why by 12:30 the place was packed and there was a line out of the door. We finished off our meal with some of the best espressos that I have had in a very long time. I was just mournful that we didn't have time to have some flan to accompany them. I will certainly be back!

Tips for the newbies:
1) Portions are HUGE. Lunch might be best split with a friend. Or alternatively, many dishes can be ordered as "half-portions."
2) A small parking area has been creatively solved by patrons who double park behind other cars. If this happens to you, simply go back inside and inform your server who knows how to solve this, and might even know whose car is behind you!
3) If you are not used to ordering a seafood dish and possibly seeing a head and tail attached, it may be best to check with the server first. Or throw caution to the wind and try it anyway!

Address: 271 Newington Ave, Hartford, CT 06106 
Phone: (860) 953-7411

Something old and something new

Throughout our lives, there will be some events, places and times that will link us to other people in some inexplicable way. For me, it is the time that I spent working at the now closed, Goodwin Hotel in downtown Hartford. The showy red brick building, was the former personal apartment building of financier, J. P. Morgan. 

During my time there, I worked at the front desk, as a valet, and in the banquets department. I sent faxes for Spike Lee, bought batteries for Serge from System of a Down, located a NY Times in a snowstorm for John Lithgow (who is just as hilarious in person) and went to a concert and after party with Joe Strummer (former front man of the punk band, the Clash, who passed away in 2002) and his new band, the Mescaleros in a very sketchy back room at the Webster Theatre. Man, those were the days. There was a tremendous sense of pride in the employees that we were part of something historic, something important. Banquets were an all out affair, and I have not seen their equal anywhere. We wore white gloves. We stood at attention in the grandious marble hall, silently greeting our guests. We loved that place. 

It was this shared experience that brought me to a Sheraton Hotel last night to catch up with my former manager and friend, Miki. While normally I do not make a practice of writing about anything corporate, it was our shared love of hospitality done the right way that impressed me and made me want to blog about. Miki is on the forefront of something new and what he is involved with at the Sheraton (previously a Marriott), will probably become a model for others to follow. Years ago, I had actually visited the restaurant with some other former Goodwin employees as we had a mini reunion over brunch there. Aside from the company, the rest of the dining experience had been unmemorable to say the least. My last impression had been of a cold, corporate, and uninspiring atmosphere. Now? It was plush, warm, and dimly lit. 

With a glass of chianti in hand, I was introduced to the head chef. I think it always says something good about a new place, when existing staff members are interested in staying on. So the star of the evening.. the food. Despite arriving on time for happy hour, sadly I didn’t partake, but I plan on going back next week for sampling that, and a full dinner. 

The deal is that with the purchase of a drink, you can enjoy complimentary mini versions of items from the dinner entree menu that change daily. A quick glance at the neatly lined plates was all I needed to dash a text off to my friend informing her of our plans for next week. I love discovering things like this. So what did I actually get to sample at the Common House Restaurant, and can we talk about that name? 

Apparently, Miki and I both seem to share a love of ordering a bunch of appetizers and pretending it’s a bunch of tapas. So we did just that. First up came the BBQ shrimp. Spicy little morsels coated with BBQ and blue cheese sauce. Then the plates just kept coming. 

Adorable candied beet sliders with goat cheese and micro greens (very appealing to a vegetable lover such as myself), sweet potato fries and fingerling potatoes wrapped in bacon appeared in front of me. Then the calamari, which one of my seafood loving friends first got me turned on to as I made my slow break away from strict vegetarianism. 

Despite my initial reluctance to this dish because of the visible tentacles, it has now become one of my favorites. This calamari was so fresh, and tossed in a light vinaigrette with arugula, tomatoes, and capers. I almost could pretend that I was back at one of the lovely cafes on the streets of Barcelona that I miss so much! Lastly, we tried the fish tacos. 

They arrived on an artist palate type of plate. Grilled pieces of grouper fish were topped with cilantro, salsa, sour cream and pepper aioli inside of the lettuce leaves to make mini wraps. A really good, light and healthy option (if you skip the sour cream!) Word to the wise, the pepper sauce is not for the faint of heart. There is some real heat to it, so stay clear if you don’t enjoy spicy. And back to that name. From what Miki explained to me, a common house is a concept that originated before inns and taverns. It was essentially a place where travelers could communally share a meal, and even a bed as they moved across the country. Cool, huh?

and now for the details:
Common House Restaurant is located at:
The Sheraton Hotel, 100 Capital Blvd, Rocky Hill, CT
(860) 257-6000 

You know its a good place when its hard to find.

Before even landing in Colombia, I had already read a selection of posts by other travelers who were raving about the restaurant called "La Mulata", so I was thrilled when I found out one day that we were going there for lunch. It is located with the walled city, and was just a short walk from where we were staying. You might have to ask someone to point it out, as most people its location, despite there being no sign. It might help to know that it is located under the Defensoría del Pueblo.

Sometimes you just walk into a place and know you are going to love it. Oh, what an adorable place! White washed walls, covered with art and words which I recognized from the menu, checkerboard floors, and brightly colored and playfully mismatched chairs. Even the menu looks like a piece of art with its splashily decorated boxes and a collaged effect of people, foods, and words absorbed my attention as orders were taken. 

La Mulata has three rooms for diners, including a back garden, so even if there is a wait, it is probably relatively short. Another plus? Fixed price menu of the day! In Cartagena, which can be very pricey, this is a great feature. And an additional reason to return again, which we ultimately ended up doing ourselves. 

Lunch starts with a bowl of soup. In the U.S., you rarely see diners interested in having hot soup in the summer. However, I can tell you that every time I have traveled to the Caribbean or Latin America, there is a hot soup served. So whether you decided to start with the fixed price one that is a lentil and chicken soup…or you order one as your main course (see picture below), soup is assuredly the way to start a meal here. 

This seafood soup was served with fried green plantains, and a side of coconut rice. I was informed this soup is good for “stamina” and we left it at that! Also, you might notice on your table that there are fresh lime wedges strewn in the metal napkin holders. Those are for squeezing into your soup. 

If you want to add a little heat, simply ask for “picante” at the server will bring over some hot sauce for you to sprinkle in the soup, which I highly suggest trying! Now you might be getting full from the soup, and from sipping your “Limonadas de Coco, a signature drink in the city, made of coconut milk and freshly squeezed lime juice, but try to save room…cause here comes the main course! 

It was seafood, and more seafood with us. From an early age, my father, a genuine seafood connoisseur, taught me that you should never eat seafood that you can smell. While I didn’t always love seafood, despite his persistence, his wisdom finally rubbed off on me. 

This seafood had ZERO fishy smell. It could have been pulled out of the ocean depths in the morning, and on my plate by noon. All three dishes were deliciously fresh and paired with either coconut rice (which I could not get enough of…even when my stomach was bursting!) or lightly sautéed vegetables, and strips of crispy plantains. 

For being considered a “bargain luncheonette”, this place is ridiculously hip with amazingly prepared, fresh food under $10 per person. During my trip, we also went to other more expensive restaurants, and when all was said and done, I would give my vote hands down to the food and staff at La Mulata. Now, next project… how can I make this food at home???

I discovered that the restaurant keeps a blog too, which does have a little mention of the menu, actual address, etc: http://lamulatacartagena.blogspot.com