Make your way to Primavera for a taste of Portugual

There are some moments in our lives that define us and our taste buds. One of mine occurred long before I would have called myself a foodie. I was sixteen and my date had invited me to dinner at The Bull Pen Cafe in Hartford's Parkville neighborhood. I was a strict vegetarian, and I will never forget the horrible moment as I stared at the menu in my hands and saw that there was nothing there for me to eat, not even a salad. I realized that if I wanted to make a good impression with his Portuguese family I was going to have to put my personal beliefs and tastes aside or risk committing a serious offense. I took a deep breath and asked them to order something for me. What arrived was a slab of meat that I couldn't identify, and I remember taking large gulps of soda as I tried to chew appreciatively. So it had been a good twenty years or so since I felt I was ready to take another stab at Portuguese cuisine. 

 
As most devout foodies are apt to tell you, the harder it is to get to, the better, and there is usually a loyal following with downright amazing food. Well, Primavera (which I believe means "Spring") might be the very definition of this. While it is in one of the oddest locations, hidden in plain sight, on Newington Ave, it is certainly not a secret to the initiated. We arrived at 11:45 am, as I had been tipped off that it is best to come early. Our knowledgeable server, Xuxa greeted us with a small bowl of olives and a basket of bread, and my friend and I munched away and watched with amazement as the small restaurant swelled to capacity within ten minutes.

At first the simple space reminded me of visiting a VFW hall or something similar. But after we ordered, we looked around a little closer to find that the place did actually have a lot of character. If you happen to find yourself there when there is room to walk about, check out the different photographs, posters and even musical instruments hung on the walls. 

Very shortly thereafter, our appetizers showed up. I have a little love affair with cod fritters and at .75 cents a piece, an order of four was not enough. Lightly crisped on the outside, these tasty little morsels were doused in hot sauce and disappeared within minutes. It was agreed that we could have effortlessly consumed a dozen of them. Although next visit I will also have to make sure I sample the fritters made from shrimp and potato as well.

As I looked over at the table next to us, and saw a carafe of red house wine brought over, I semi-regretted coming for lunch instead of dinner. This is one of the things that I miss most about visiting other countries. Meal time is not something to be hurriedly squeezed into a lunch break from work. It is an experience meant to be shared and savored. I was relieved from my wandering thoughts of the pleasures of long meals as ours arrived. The tilapia filets were smothered in sauteed onions and peppers and accompanied by boiled potatoes and sauteed broccoli rabe. Four steamed mussel 
shells lined the rim of the plate. Heavenly. I instantly understood why by 12:30 the place was packed and there was a line out of the door. We finished off our meal with some of the best espressos that I have had in a very long time. I was just mournful that we didn't have time to have some flan to accompany them. I will certainly be back!

Tips for the newbies:
1) Portions are HUGE. Lunch might be best split with a friend. Or alternatively, many dishes can be ordered as "half-portions."
2) A small parking area has been creatively solved by patrons who double park behind other cars. If this happens to you, simply go back inside and inform your server who knows how to solve this, and might even know whose car is behind you!
3) If you are not used to ordering a seafood dish and possibly seeing a head and tail attached, it may be best to check with the server first. Or throw caution to the wind and try it anyway!

Address: 271 Newington Ave, Hartford, CT 06106 
Phone: (860) 953-7411